Tuesday, January 31, 2023
HomeFast FoodREVIEW: Van Leeuwen Restricted Version Glass Onion Ice Cream

REVIEW: Van Leeuwen Restricted Version Glass Onion Ice Cream


“I feel it tastes like a garlic bagel with cream cheese,” whispered the conspiratorial cashier as I bought my pint of Van Leeuwen’s new restricted version Glass Onion ice cream. Fittingly for a thriller movie tie-in, this ice cream is a thriller taste, however the style that was extra on my thoughts was horror. Relaxation assured, although, that this taste’s title will not be a purple herring — it assaults you with an amazing odor of onion as quickly as you peel open the pint.

Pushing onwards to research the scene of what some would possibly name a meals crime, I famous the ice cream base gave the impression to be vanilla, streaked with a viscous darkish brown swirl. Earlier than my first spoonful even made it to my mouth, I used to be impressed by its soft-but-not-airy, velvety-but-not-heavy texture that hinted at top quality.

If I needed to sum the style up in a single phrase (aside from “HUH?”), it will be “advanced.” The foremost taste was undeniably — and unsurprisingly — the distinguished and dominant onion, which appeared to originate from the gooey, gluey swirl and was potent with a faintly acrid aftertaste that was welcome amidst the decadent vanilla’s silky sweetness. I couldn’t fairly pinpoint the remainder of the swirl’s uncommon (or onionusual) style, nevertheless it appeared to have notes of each candy and savory, which made me guess that it concerned sea salt caramel. I used to be genuinely shocked and delighted when, after I’d lastly gotten acclimated to this unusual but in addition unusually addictive taste, a scoop of what had been heretofore clean immediately additionally included a brittle chunk of… one thing.

I’m betting that this mysterious mix-in was deliberately hidden deeper within the pint so as to add a component of shock. I detected some sugariness and crispiness that made me consider honeycomb, and likewise made me keen to search out one other of those items. However as my ice cream quickly melted, I encountered no extra of the cryptic crispies, solely a sequence of more and more oversaturated patches of swirl that tasted like straight-up onion powder, however with odd, extraordinarily intense notes of tartness and acidity that jogged my memory of balsamic vinegar. As soon as the vanilla ice cream had change into too soupy to be an enough counterbalance, the omnipresent onion simply grew to become overpoweringly gross. On that low observe, I headed to Google so I might extra totally curse the offender behind this fetid frenzy of flavors.

It seems that that is vanilla ice cream with Greek yogurt, bourbon caramelized onion jam, and – sure!!!! – crystallized honeycomb sweet (I assume I simply acquired an especially sparse batch). Like all satisfying thriller, the clues are all clear in hindsight: I can see now how the Greek yogurt was what offered that inexplicable tartness, whereas the swirl’s ambiguous taste profile and consistency do, on reflection, appear fairly jammy, and hey, I at the least get some partial credit score for selecting up on a component of caramel, proper?

I’d like to finish this evaluate by quoting one other beloved piece of cinema: Shrek, the place the metaphor “Onions have layers” is used to remind us that even bizarre issues are at all times extra nuanced than they seem. Very like onions (and ogres), Glass Onion ice cream definitely does have layers, however I can perceive why some won’t need to expertise them. Now that I’ve cracked the case, I can’t see any cause to ever revisit this product myself. Hopefully the film fares higher!

Bought Worth: $10.50
Dimension: 14 oz
Bought at: Van Leeuwen
Ranking: 6 out of 10
Diet Info: (2/3 cup) 250 energy, 14 grams of fats, 9 grams of saturated fats, 0 grams of trans fats, 85 milligrams of ldl cholesterol, 160 milligrams of sodium, 25 grams of carbohydrates, 0 grams of fiber, 24 grams of sugar (together with 18 grams of added sugar), and 4 grams of protein.

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